I wish to stand corrected on one of my earlier posts regarding biological filters - it's been a few years since I had my last pond, and available products have vastly improved since then! The lava rock I recommended (since it provides a lot of surface area for the nitrifying bateria) has been replaced by bead filters which are far easier to clean.
So - I figured I'd take a few minutes to go over the different types of filtration, and the purpose for each. First, it is recommended that you have a bottom drain at the lowest point in your pond. This enables waste material to be drawn out, and caught in the first filter. This is a mechanical filter which traps large and small particles - fish waste, uneaten food, plant particles and so on.
You might also have some form of chemical filtration. This removes pesticides, colors, odors, and organics which were too small to be trapped by a mechanical filter.
Finally, there is biological filtration. This provides some form of medium on which the beneficial bacteria can grow - bacteria which convert toxins such as ammonia and nitrites into less toxic nitrates. Nitrates are in turn used as a food source by aquatic plants. However you set up your biological filter, it needs to provide oxygenated water, as these bacteria work best with plenty of oxygen.
For garden pond owners, if you don't have fish you may do well with just a biological filter. However, I still recommend installing a bottom drain, as you may very well need to drain your pond for cleaning, or to repair a leak. For fish owners, the removal of fish wastes and uneaten food helps reduce the buildup of ammonia, and will significantly reduce the amount of time you have to spend maintaining the water quality of your pond!
Tuesday, April 8, 2008
Thursday, April 3, 2008
Koi, Pond, Water Garden - This is the Year to Get Yours!
(Just as an aside - I'm very excited; this article was accepted by Ezine, and I was awarded Expert Author status!)
A water feature in your garden or back yard adds beauty, value, movement - and an amazing sense of tranquility and peace! This article is intended to provide a few tips and ideas to help make the job of installation easier, save money, avoid mistakes, and help you get the most from your new addition!
First, you should decide exactly what you want. A water garden could be anything from a large tub with a few water plants to a huge pond with stream, waterfall, bridge, and extensive plantings of waterlilies, bog iris and marginal plants. However, if you also want fish - especially koi - this adds another level of planning.
With any water feature, nice clean water enhances the overall picture. With koi, you will also need well-oxygenated water free of chemicals and toxins that could harm your fish. This includes ammonia generated by fish wastes, and chemicals which might help clear your water and be harmless to plants, but could be toxic to your fish. This is where filtration comes in - and a good filtration system can ease the maintenance of a larger pond even if it doesn't have fish.
Once you've decided what you want, you need to decide how large you want it. And let me tell you - almost anyone who has installed a water feature or pond will tell you that one of the main things they would change would be to make their pond bigger! Yes, it's possible to expand or add onto an existing installation, but it's almost always less expensive to make the larger installation in the first place!
While you are making plans for rocks, waterfall, plants and so forth, be sure to include a spot to sit and enjoy your pond - and fish, if you have them. Consider adding a feature such as a pergola - these provide broken shade for you and can do the same for the koi in your pond if extended over a portion of the pond. You can also wire these to include lighting, or an overhead fan to further add to the comfort of relaxing and enjoying the peace and tranquility of your new addition.
If you aren't sure about koi, but do want a fairly large pond - install a bottom drain! It doesn't require immediate hookup to a pump or filter, but even without fish it can be invaluable if you need to drain the pond for cleaning, or to repair a leak. Then, if/when you decide to add koi at some later date, your bottom drain is already plumbed and just waiting for the addition of a mechanical filter and pump! The plumbing costs very little at this point in time, and can save a lot at a later date.
Here are just a few other things to think about as you are planning your new addition. First, all the dirt that comes out of that hole can be used to a) create a raised planting bed along the back; b) raise the sides of your pond and reduce the depth you need to dig; or c) build up the area where you want a waterfall. For oxygenation - or just to hear the sound of water - you might also add a fountain, perhaps in statue form. Plants include bog plants - these can be separated from the main pond with a narrow border that still allows water in to maintain the moisture these plants need. A stream can add more movement with additional oxygenation and filtering, and waterfalls are great for movement, the music of water in motion, and oxygenation. A path and bridge can add to your viewing enjoyment. And edging can be grass, slate, brick, rock, or any combination - such as slate for your sitting area, with large rock around the rest of the pond perimeter.
A water feature in your garden or back yard adds beauty, value, movement - and an amazing sense of tranquility and peace! This article is intended to provide a few tips and ideas to help make the job of installation easier, save money, avoid mistakes, and help you get the most from your new addition!
First, you should decide exactly what you want. A water garden could be anything from a large tub with a few water plants to a huge pond with stream, waterfall, bridge, and extensive plantings of waterlilies, bog iris and marginal plants. However, if you also want fish - especially koi - this adds another level of planning.
With any water feature, nice clean water enhances the overall picture. With koi, you will also need well-oxygenated water free of chemicals and toxins that could harm your fish. This includes ammonia generated by fish wastes, and chemicals which might help clear your water and be harmless to plants, but could be toxic to your fish. This is where filtration comes in - and a good filtration system can ease the maintenance of a larger pond even if it doesn't have fish.
Once you've decided what you want, you need to decide how large you want it. And let me tell you - almost anyone who has installed a water feature or pond will tell you that one of the main things they would change would be to make their pond bigger! Yes, it's possible to expand or add onto an existing installation, but it's almost always less expensive to make the larger installation in the first place!
While you are making plans for rocks, waterfall, plants and so forth, be sure to include a spot to sit and enjoy your pond - and fish, if you have them. Consider adding a feature such as a pergola - these provide broken shade for you and can do the same for the koi in your pond if extended over a portion of the pond. You can also wire these to include lighting, or an overhead fan to further add to the comfort of relaxing and enjoying the peace and tranquility of your new addition.
If you aren't sure about koi, but do want a fairly large pond - install a bottom drain! It doesn't require immediate hookup to a pump or filter, but even without fish it can be invaluable if you need to drain the pond for cleaning, or to repair a leak. Then, if/when you decide to add koi at some later date, your bottom drain is already plumbed and just waiting for the addition of a mechanical filter and pump! The plumbing costs very little at this point in time, and can save a lot at a later date.
Here are just a few other things to think about as you are planning your new addition. First, all the dirt that comes out of that hole can be used to a) create a raised planting bed along the back; b) raise the sides of your pond and reduce the depth you need to dig; or c) build up the area where you want a waterfall. For oxygenation - or just to hear the sound of water - you might also add a fountain, perhaps in statue form. Plants include bog plants - these can be separated from the main pond with a narrow border that still allows water in to maintain the moisture these plants need. A stream can add more movement with additional oxygenation and filtering, and waterfalls are great for movement, the music of water in motion, and oxygenation. A path and bridge can add to your viewing enjoyment. And edging can be grass, slate, brick, rock, or any combination - such as slate for your sitting area, with large rock around the rest of the pond perimeter.
Monday, March 31, 2008
How many Koi can I have?
This question seems common, but the answer doesn't! After several hours of searching through various websites and reading numerous articles, I've found some information that provides practical guidelines. However (and this is important!), please use this as a guideline only! I'll explain further on -
A general rule of thumb is to stock about 1" of fish for every 10 gallons of water. However, this is based on the assumption that your pond is set up to maintain healthy water quality - and healthy koi! Some of the things to consider include growth rates, waste disposal, temperature changes, and predator protection. Here's how each of these can affect your stocking rate. I should also add that opinions on stocking rates vary; this rate would mean you'd have at least 120 gallons for a 12" fish. I've read other opinions which suggest anywhere from 250-500 gallons per fish; since they are discussing koi, and since a healthy koi under good conditions can reach 3', even my guidelines recommend 360 gallons for a 36" koi.
Growth rates: Young koi can grow as much as 4-6" in the first year, and 2-4" in their second year. Therefore, if you purchase 4-6" fish, expect that they will be 12-14" long within two years, and plan your initial stocking rate accordingly. Or, consider how many fish you would like to have, and plan to build your pond to accomodate them.
Waste Disposal: Koi, like all animals, follow nature's course - what goes in must come out! This waste material will start to break down, and generate ammonia nitrate in the water - too much, and your fish will get sick and die. Numerous sites provide information on filtration and treatment options, so I won't go into those here except to say that if you are planning to build a pond and have koi, get the best filtration systems you can - a bottom drain for sludge and a biological filter for toxins are tops for maintaining water quality with the least amount of labor, but other options are available if you are willing to put more time and effort into maintaining the water quality of your pond.
Temperature changes: In many parts of the country we can have exceptional temperature swings - especially in the spring and fall! Here in North Carolina we were enjoying 74 degrees last week; yesterday we didn't get up out of the 30's! A shallow pool is more susceptible to these temperature swings, which can be stressful on your koi. In the summer, very warm pond water is also prone to developing heavy algae - which most of us don't want! And you may be in a location where your pond is apt to freeze during the winter. A stock tank heater from your local farm supply will keep an airhole open and help prevent toxic gases from building up under the ice. All of this is to support the idea that your pond should probably be at least 4feet deep, to help buffer temperature changes.
Predators: Blue heron, raccoons, cats - these are probably the most common. Many good suppliers also offer solutions, but one of the first things you can do is to build a fairly deep pond (here's that 4' guideline again!) with straight sides that doesn't offer a good spot for cats or raccoons to fish from, and it's too deep for a heron. A wire around the edge of the pond can discourage herons; a mesh net over your pond may be the solution for all of these. There is also a motion-detector-activated sprinkler that could be installed. And don't think your cat won't get her feet wet - I found out how wrong I was when I went out one morning and found 3 of my favorite koi dead or dying on the ground!
Lastly, consider the swimming health of your fish. A pond that's 8' around may be a nice showplace for smaller fish, but a two-foot koi will not get the exercise it should have swimming in circles. You would be better off with a 16' long pool that's 4-5' wide and at least 4' deep, to provide some straight-line swimming for your larger koi.
For your planning purposes, here is an effective pond volume calculator: http://www.koigarden.com/calc2.php
A general rule of thumb is to stock about 1" of fish for every 10 gallons of water. However, this is based on the assumption that your pond is set up to maintain healthy water quality - and healthy koi! Some of the things to consider include growth rates, waste disposal, temperature changes, and predator protection. Here's how each of these can affect your stocking rate. I should also add that opinions on stocking rates vary; this rate would mean you'd have at least 120 gallons for a 12" fish. I've read other opinions which suggest anywhere from 250-500 gallons per fish; since they are discussing koi, and since a healthy koi under good conditions can reach 3', even my guidelines recommend 360 gallons for a 36" koi.
Growth rates: Young koi can grow as much as 4-6" in the first year, and 2-4" in their second year. Therefore, if you purchase 4-6" fish, expect that they will be 12-14" long within two years, and plan your initial stocking rate accordingly. Or, consider how many fish you would like to have, and plan to build your pond to accomodate them.
Waste Disposal: Koi, like all animals, follow nature's course - what goes in must come out! This waste material will start to break down, and generate ammonia nitrate in the water - too much, and your fish will get sick and die. Numerous sites provide information on filtration and treatment options, so I won't go into those here except to say that if you are planning to build a pond and have koi, get the best filtration systems you can - a bottom drain for sludge and a biological filter for toxins are tops for maintaining water quality with the least amount of labor, but other options are available if you are willing to put more time and effort into maintaining the water quality of your pond.
Temperature changes: In many parts of the country we can have exceptional temperature swings - especially in the spring and fall! Here in North Carolina we were enjoying 74 degrees last week; yesterday we didn't get up out of the 30's! A shallow pool is more susceptible to these temperature swings, which can be stressful on your koi. In the summer, very warm pond water is also prone to developing heavy algae - which most of us don't want! And you may be in a location where your pond is apt to freeze during the winter. A stock tank heater from your local farm supply will keep an airhole open and help prevent toxic gases from building up under the ice. All of this is to support the idea that your pond should probably be at least 4feet deep, to help buffer temperature changes.
Predators: Blue heron, raccoons, cats - these are probably the most common. Many good suppliers also offer solutions, but one of the first things you can do is to build a fairly deep pond (here's that 4' guideline again!) with straight sides that doesn't offer a good spot for cats or raccoons to fish from, and it's too deep for a heron. A wire around the edge of the pond can discourage herons; a mesh net over your pond may be the solution for all of these. There is also a motion-detector-activated sprinkler that could be installed. And don't think your cat won't get her feet wet - I found out how wrong I was when I went out one morning and found 3 of my favorite koi dead or dying on the ground!
Lastly, consider the swimming health of your fish. A pond that's 8' around may be a nice showplace for smaller fish, but a two-foot koi will not get the exercise it should have swimming in circles. You would be better off with a 16' long pool that's 4-5' wide and at least 4' deep, to provide some straight-line swimming for your larger koi.
For your planning purposes, here is an effective pond volume calculator: http://www.koigarden.com/calc2.php
Sunday, March 30, 2008
Koi and Garden Ponds
Koi are a natural addition to your garden pond, adding color and movement as well as being like pets. They will learn to eat from your hand, and follow your movement around the pond when you are near. I found our koi ponds to be incredibly peaceful and relaxing to be around - there's something about the sound of water in motion that soothes the soul!
There are several things that I learned that might be helpful if you are planning on building your own water feature and/or koi pond. First of all, koi need shade, especially in warmer climates. One common solution is water lilies; however, it's not always mentioned that your water lilies need a "cage" to protect them from the koi! Water lilies are usually placed in a container with soil or growing medium, and medium-sized gravel is placed on top of the growing medium. However, koi as small as 10" will root around in the gravel to get at new growing tips to nibble on, knocking gravel out of the pot and disturbing the soil underneath. Most suppliers of water gardening products will offer a plastic mesh that can easily be wrapped around your water lily and extend up near the surface of your pond to keep the koi from browsing on their shade. One caution here - if you have smaller fish in the pond (6" or so), they may find their way inside the mesh. They aren't likely to cause any damage to the plant, but may have trouble getting back out, and you might need to help!
Here's another solution that I found - add a pergola! These are very attractive garden structures that can have vines climbing on them, and offer broken shade - while still allowing enough sunlight to support the growth of your water lilies and other bog and water plants. They can be constructed across one end of your pond - or over the entire pond if size permits - and extend to cover a seating area where you can relax and enjoy the sound of running water, the fish in your pond, and have a bit of broken shade too!
I'll have more tips and advice in the coming days - I did just come across this resource with instructions for building your own pergola. There's a photo so you can see what a pergola actually is!
Pergola Building Plans
There are several things that I learned that might be helpful if you are planning on building your own water feature and/or koi pond. First of all, koi need shade, especially in warmer climates. One common solution is water lilies; however, it's not always mentioned that your water lilies need a "cage" to protect them from the koi! Water lilies are usually placed in a container with soil or growing medium, and medium-sized gravel is placed on top of the growing medium. However, koi as small as 10" will root around in the gravel to get at new growing tips to nibble on, knocking gravel out of the pot and disturbing the soil underneath. Most suppliers of water gardening products will offer a plastic mesh that can easily be wrapped around your water lily and extend up near the surface of your pond to keep the koi from browsing on their shade. One caution here - if you have smaller fish in the pond (6" or so), they may find their way inside the mesh. They aren't likely to cause any damage to the plant, but may have trouble getting back out, and you might need to help!
Here's another solution that I found - add a pergola! These are very attractive garden structures that can have vines climbing on them, and offer broken shade - while still allowing enough sunlight to support the growth of your water lilies and other bog and water plants. They can be constructed across one end of your pond - or over the entire pond if size permits - and extend to cover a seating area where you can relax and enjoy the sound of running water, the fish in your pond, and have a bit of broken shade too!
I'll have more tips and advice in the coming days - I did just come across this resource with instructions for building your own pergola. There's a photo so you can see what a pergola actually is!
Pergola Building Plans
Friday, March 28, 2008
On-Line Information
Well, I've spent some of the past few hours searching for articles on koi, and I have to say that there is a real shortage of material in some areas! I reprinted the article from the Mail Tribune, then went looking for anything on E-zine - nothing, zip, nadda, zilch! So, for you other koi-lovers out there, I'll start building a genuine resource of information!
First, the article from the Mail Tribune suggests that you can expect to spend about $5,000 to build a koi pond. In my humble opinion this is a very inflated price! Having built two of them myself, unless you contract all the labor out and buy the fanciest, most expensive pumps and material, you should not have to invest more than $800-1,000 of your hard-earned money on building a fantastic koi pond. The two items which will cost the most are the rubber liner and the pump. I'm not including the cost of the fish - you could go overboard on buying expensive fish! However I purchased very premium-quality fish from importers at $75 or less because I bought smaller fish and planned on room for them to grow.
You have a second option, and that is building a concrete pond. This could run into real money, but it comes with separate problems. First, the concrete has to have water sit in it for awhile before you put any fish in, to leach out the chemicals which can be toxic. Or, you can paint it with a coating to prevent the leaching and protect the water and fish. Then, if it ever cracks or develops a leak, you have a harder time fixing it without putting your fish at risk. The rubber liners usually have a 10-year guarantee, and if they develop a leak they can be patched more easily and quickly.
There are a multitude of books available - at Lowe's or Home Depot, or Amazon.com - with detailed instructions on building a pond. If you want to have koi in it, however, you need to be sure the pond is at least 4 feet deep at the deepest point, and has an effective filtration system. Your pump can pull the water from the pond into a large tank, set to one side and filled with lava rock, to effectively cleanse the water and provide a source for a waterfall to return the cleansed water to the pond. Lava rock is the medium of choice because it provides a lot of surface area to host the bacteria that do the cleaning for you - and you can purchase the "seed bacteria" to get your organic filter started. Good instructions will include how to aerate the water as it goes into the tank, since these bacteria need lots of oxygen.
I'm going to go see if I can find some sites with detailed instructions for you - more later!
First, the article from the Mail Tribune suggests that you can expect to spend about $5,000 to build a koi pond. In my humble opinion this is a very inflated price! Having built two of them myself, unless you contract all the labor out and buy the fanciest, most expensive pumps and material, you should not have to invest more than $800-1,000 of your hard-earned money on building a fantastic koi pond. The two items which will cost the most are the rubber liner and the pump. I'm not including the cost of the fish - you could go overboard on buying expensive fish! However I purchased very premium-quality fish from importers at $75 or less because I bought smaller fish and planned on room for them to grow.
You have a second option, and that is building a concrete pond. This could run into real money, but it comes with separate problems. First, the concrete has to have water sit in it for awhile before you put any fish in, to leach out the chemicals which can be toxic. Or, you can paint it with a coating to prevent the leaching and protect the water and fish. Then, if it ever cracks or develops a leak, you have a harder time fixing it without putting your fish at risk. The rubber liners usually have a 10-year guarantee, and if they develop a leak they can be patched more easily and quickly.
There are a multitude of books available - at Lowe's or Home Depot, or Amazon.com - with detailed instructions on building a pond. If you want to have koi in it, however, you need to be sure the pond is at least 4 feet deep at the deepest point, and has an effective filtration system. Your pump can pull the water from the pond into a large tank, set to one side and filled with lava rock, to effectively cleanse the water and provide a source for a waterfall to return the cleansed water to the pond. Lava rock is the medium of choice because it provides a lot of surface area to host the bacteria that do the cleaning for you - and you can purchase the "seed bacteria" to get your organic filter started. Good instructions will include how to aerate the water as it goes into the tank, since these bacteria need lots of oxygen.
I'm going to go see if I can find some sites with detailed instructions for you - more later!
Thursday, March 27, 2008
They're addicting, but homeowners say the colorful fish are worth the time and effort
Reprinted from the Mail Tribune, by John Darling
People who keep koi ponds acknowledge it's expensive and somewhat addicting, but more than worth it for the serenity and peace of mind these colorful, meandering creatures create in their little backyard paradise.
"The beauty, the tranquility -- and watching them thrive, knowing they're happy and healthy. I can't imagine my yard without them," says Sandi Whittle, who started with a dozen koi when she bought her home on the slopes of Roxy Ann Peak a decade ago.
Now, their numbers have tripled and their care has become a "huge responsibility," but one that Whittle and other members of the Siskiyou Koi and Pond Club willingly embrace.
"It's not like a swimming pool - throw in chemicals and leave. I had no idea what I was getting into. It's way higher maintenance than a pool," she says. "But it's so peaceful. I recommend it, but you have to be committed."
While the expense of making a pond and supplying it with pump, filters, skimmer, rocks and plants is generally estimated at around $5,000, that just gets you to square one. The rest carries a very steep learning curve about water quality, fish diseases, pH factors, predators - and how to stop them, says koi fancier Vicki Dudley, who's been at it two years.
"I bought books and tapes. There was nothing out there telling me what to do," says Didley, noting that after one year of the group's existence, club members - with the help of koi expert Norman Call in Roseburg - have come a long way and now assist newer members in avoiding most mistakes.
Many people start out innocently by following the popular trend of getting a gurgling water feature in their yard, then they put in a couple goldfish - then, why not? - get a six-inch koi or two. After all, they are so much prettier with their filmy fins and radical reds, oranges, blacks and whites.
"It's about so much more than watching fish swim around," says club president Lois Rosmarin, who says at the heart of it koi are actually pets, creatures with smarts and personalities, some shy, some playful, one outgoing, one a bully. They eat out of your hands. They recognize your voice and follow you around the pool and you love them enough to give them names, she says.
The chubby, docile koi are sitting ducks for raccoons, herons and other predators, but keeping koi safe isn't that hard, says Whittle. You fence your property, keep the pond four to five feet deep with steep sides, and drape netting around the edges. Predators won't walk on netting or step off into deep water.
The Koi and Pond Club, started a year ago with five members, has expanded to dozens now and offers instruction - or directs members to Internet courses - on pond health, fish physiology, nutrition and other science. Much of the learning is aimed at freeing pond water from ammonia and nitrates produced by fish and keeping water near the ideal pH of 7.4, says Rosmarin.
Koi originated as catfish living in the rice paddies of Asia, where farmers, only a few centuries ago, started selecting and breeding the more colorful ones.
People who keep koi ponds acknowledge it's expensive and somewhat addicting, but more than worth it for the serenity and peace of mind these colorful, meandering creatures create in their little backyard paradise.
"The beauty, the tranquility -- and watching them thrive, knowing they're happy and healthy. I can't imagine my yard without them," says Sandi Whittle, who started with a dozen koi when she bought her home on the slopes of Roxy Ann Peak a decade ago.
Now, their numbers have tripled and their care has become a "huge responsibility," but one that Whittle and other members of the Siskiyou Koi and Pond Club willingly embrace.
"It's not like a swimming pool - throw in chemicals and leave. I had no idea what I was getting into. It's way higher maintenance than a pool," she says. "But it's so peaceful. I recommend it, but you have to be committed."
While the expense of making a pond and supplying it with pump, filters, skimmer, rocks and plants is generally estimated at around $5,000, that just gets you to square one. The rest carries a very steep learning curve about water quality, fish diseases, pH factors, predators - and how to stop them, says koi fancier Vicki Dudley, who's been at it two years.
"I bought books and tapes. There was nothing out there telling me what to do," says Didley, noting that after one year of the group's existence, club members - with the help of koi expert Norman Call in Roseburg - have come a long way and now assist newer members in avoiding most mistakes.
Many people start out innocently by following the popular trend of getting a gurgling water feature in their yard, then they put in a couple goldfish - then, why not? - get a six-inch koi or two. After all, they are so much prettier with their filmy fins and radical reds, oranges, blacks and whites.
"It's about so much more than watching fish swim around," says club president Lois Rosmarin, who says at the heart of it koi are actually pets, creatures with smarts and personalities, some shy, some playful, one outgoing, one a bully. They eat out of your hands. They recognize your voice and follow you around the pool and you love them enough to give them names, she says.
The chubby, docile koi are sitting ducks for raccoons, herons and other predators, but keeping koi safe isn't that hard, says Whittle. You fence your property, keep the pond four to five feet deep with steep sides, and drape netting around the edges. Predators won't walk on netting or step off into deep water.
The Koi and Pond Club, started a year ago with five members, has expanded to dozens now and offers instruction - or directs members to Internet courses - on pond health, fish physiology, nutrition and other science. Much of the learning is aimed at freeing pond water from ammonia and nitrates produced by fish and keeping water near the ideal pH of 7.4, says Rosmarin.
Koi originated as catfish living in the rice paddies of Asia, where farmers, only a few centuries ago, started selecting and breeding the more colorful ones.
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